Soft Plastic Gilley Shad

A realistic shad/bluegill-style soft swimbait that’s already proven across panfish, crappie, bass, walleye, and trout. Start with fall rate (sink speed), then choose size (1.5"–4.8"), then profile (shad body vs paddle-tail), and finish with color for visibility.

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Category page • quick answers + rig setups

Fall rate first: control sink speed, then pick size (1.5"–4.8"), then shad-body vs paddle-tail—everything else is a cleanup pass.

What is a Soft Plastic Gilley Shad?

A Soft Plastic Gilley Shad is a realistic, baitfish-style soft swimbait built to look natural on the drop and on the pause—not just on a straight retrieve. In this category you’ll see two main profile types: a gilley-style/shad body and a paddle-tail variant, in sizes from 1.5" to 4.8".

Filters to expect on this category: Color • Length (1-inch increments) • Brand

First lever: fall rate (your speed control)

Fall rate is the first lever because it controls how long the bait stays in the strike window. If fish are tracking but not committing, fall rate is usually the fastest path to “full eats.”

Slower fall: more hang time, more realism on pause—great for panfish, crappie, and tough bites.
Faster fall: better control in wind/current and easier depth repeatability—great when you need to stay in a lane.

Swimbait jig heads Hooks

Second lever: size (1.5"–4.8" in clean buckets)

Use the Length filter like a decision tool. Think in buckets (because your inventory will grow):

~2" bucket (1.5"–2.4"): panfish-first, crappie, finesse bass, slower presentations.
~3" bucket (2.5"–3.4"): the “do most things” size across crappie, bass, and many walleye situations.
~4" bucket (3.5"–4.8"): bigger bass and walleye opportunities; trout when they’re hunting larger forage.

If you’re unsure, start smaller and adjust fall rate before upsizing. That keeps the bait looking natural while you dial depth and cadence.

Second lever (part 2): profile — shad body vs paddle-tail

Gilley-style/shad body: wins when you pause a lot. It keeps a believable posture on the drop and during dead-sticks.
Paddle-tail variant: wins when you need consistent vibration and tracking on a steady retrieve (wind, stain, current).

Underspins Swim jigs

Third lever: color (visibility first, matching second)

Color is your visibility control. Choose colors that help fish track the bait cleanly in your water and light, then fine-tune once the fall rate and size are right.

Clear + bright: lean natural/translucent and reduce contrast.
Stained + low light: increase contrast so the silhouette reads.
Wind/chop: you can push contrast slightly more than calm water.

Where it shines

This profile shines when “realism on the pause” matters. It’s built for fish that inspect, follow, and finally commit when the bait looks alive without needing speed.

Panfish + crappie: swim short lanes and pause frequently—many bites happen during the settle.
Bass: edges and transitions—shade lines, grass lines, dock lines, and current seams.
Walleye: controlled drops and short lifts along edges, especially when they’re feeding on baitfish.
Trout: steady swim with clean pauses—keep the profile and fall rate consistent.

When & where to use (priority order)

Boat without electronics: use sink counts as your depth tool. Count down, swim, pause, repeat the same lane until you get proof.

River: quartering casts and controlled swings. Pick a fall rate that stays stable in flow.

Bank fishing: work parallel to edges (weedlines, riprap, current breaks) and pause at “changes.”

Docks: smaller sizes skip/pitch well; let them glide down and pause at the shade edge.

Category is NOT (quick boundaries)

Not a bait that requires high speed to look right.
Not the best tool when you need maximum vibration from far away.
Not a heavy cover punch bait designed to crash through thick mats.
Not a “one cadence only” lure—pauses are part of the deal.

Bladed jigs Standard spinners Buzzbaits

Steady swim + pause

Where: edges—grass lines, shade lines, current seams, riprap transitions.

Setup: choose weight so your sink count is repeatable.

Cadence: swim 4–8 turns, pause 1–3 seconds, then resume.

When: fish are inspecting and following.

Swimbait jig heads Underspins

Countdown + lane control (no electronics)

Where: points, pockets, and outside edges you can repeat.

Setup: pick a sink count and keep it for 10 casts before changing.

Cadence: count down, steady retrieve, brief pauses every few feet.

When: wind, light stain, or when you need repeatability.

Quartering cast + swing (river)

Where: seams, eddies, and current breaks.

Setup: enough weight to stay stable in flow.

Cadence: cast quartering upstream, sink, swing on light tension, pause at the seam.

When: fish are positioned and waiting.

Dock skip + glide-out

Where: shade pockets, pontoon lifts, slips, and walkways.

Setup: smaller sizes help skipping and keep the fall natural.

Cadence: skip in, let it glide down, swim out slowly, pause at the shade edge.

When: bluegill are active around docks or bass are living under shade.

Bottom hover + lift (walleye lane)

Where: rock/sand transitions and edges where fish slide.

Setup: enough weight to stay near bottom without plowing.

Cadence: short lifts, controlled falls, long pauses.

When: fish are present but not chasing.

All jigs Hooks

Best by conditions

Clear + calm: slower fall, smaller size bucket, shad body, natural colors, more pauses.
Stained: moderate fall, mid size bucket, higher contrast; paddle-tail if tracking is an issue.
Wind/chop: slightly faster fall for control; steadier swim; paddle-tail helps.
Tough bite: slow fall + longer pauses; downsize before changing color.
Current: stable fall rate; quartering swing; avoid ultra-slow that loses posture in flow.

Underspins Swim jigs Bladed jigs

Step checklist (use this every time)

Size → Profile → Fall Rate → Cadence → Adjust

Size: pick your bucket (~2", ~3", ~4") based on target and bite feel.
Profile: shad body for pause/hover realism; paddle-tail for steady tracking and thump.
Fall Rate: make your sink repeatable (your sink count becomes your depth control).
Cadence: start swim + pause; prove chase before you speed up.
Adjust: fall rate first, then size, then color.

Weather-based selection

Bright + calm: slow fall and longer pauses.
Windy: add a touch of weight for control; consider paddle-tail.
Cloudy / low light: increase contrast and keep cadence slightly steadier.
Tough bite: slow fall + downsize + more pause time.

Tips

Count it down: run the same sink count for 10 casts before changing.
Pause on purpose: the pause is part of the presentation, not dead time.
Light tension: enough to feel, not enough to kill the glide.
Fix speed with fall rate: adjust sink speed before you abandon the bait.

For bass-adjacent setups and rig options: https://qwikfishing.com/best-bass-fishing-rigs/

Common mistakes + fast fixes

Mistake: fishing too fast. Fix: slow the fall and add pauses.
Mistake: changing color constantly. Fix: fall rate/size first, color last.
Mistake: losing control in wind/current. Fix: add a touch of weight and keep light tension.
Mistake: no repeat lane. Fix: use sink counts so you can repeat depth.
Mistake: over-setting on nips. Fix: reel into pressure, then sweep.

Compact finesse jigs Arky head jigs Brush jigs

Maintenance & Storage

Store flat in the original bag to preserve shape. Keep dark colors separate to avoid bleeding. Compatible with most gel scents.

Plastics Recycling

Don't toss torn baits, recycle or dispose of properly. Learn more here: https://qwikfishing.com/recycling/

FAQs

What size should I start with for mixed species?
Start in the ~3" bucket (2.5"–3.4") when you want crappie, bass, and walleye chances on the same bait. Downsize for panfish-first, upsize for bigger bites.

When should I choose the paddle-tail version?
Choose paddle-tail when you want built-in thump on a steady retrieve—wind, stain, current, or anytime fish need help tracking the bait.

When is the shad-body version better?
When you’re pausing a lot. The shad body stays believable on the drop and on the pause, which is where many bites happen.

What’s the fastest way to dial in depth without electronics?
Use sink counts. Count it down to a repeatable number, then run the same retrieve. Change weight if you can’t hold the lane.

Should I change color or weight first?
Weight first. Fall rate controls the strike window; color is the final visibility tweak once the presentation is already in the right lane.

Why am I getting nips but not hookups?
Slow the fall slightly, shorten the pauses, and downsize one bucket. Many “nips” are fish tracking but not fully committing.

Can I fish this around docks?
Yes—especially smaller sizes. Skip it into shade, let it glide down, then swim out and pause at the shade edge.

Is this good for walleye?
It can be excellent when walleye are hunting baitfish or sliding edges. Keep the fall controlled and use short lifts with long pauses.

How do I pick a starting cadence?
Start steady swim + pause. If fish follow but don’t eat, lengthen pauses or slow the fall rate before you speed up.

What’s the simplest “one setup” for covering water?
Paddle-tail profile on a swimbait jig head, steady retrieve, and brief pauses every few feet—simple and repeatable.