Jiggin' Johnsons' Ripswim 4.0" Soft Plastic Minnow Bait

When/Where: Wind, broken weeds, riprap, and anywhere you’re trying to cover water and find active fish.

How: Thread it straight as a trailer so it tracks true. Start with a steady retrieve, then mix in short speed-ups to make the bait surge and re-center.

Why: The minnow profile keeps the package compact and “baitfishy,” with enough tail movement to keep the blade’s vibration from overpowering the look.

Tuning: If it pulls to one side, re-rig perfectly centered and check that the trailer isn’t bunched at the keeper.

When/Where: Stained water, over submerged grass, and along wood/rock where flash helps fish find you.

How: Use it as a trailer to add body and extend the profile without adding a ton of drag. Slow-roll it just above cover, then tick the tops.

Why: A straight, minnow-shaped trailer keeps the bait stable, helps it “hunt” without helicoptering, and gives you a clean target on short strikes.

When/Where: Shallow grass lanes, dock edges, and mid-depth weed tops—especially when fish are keyed on baitfish.

How: Pair with a streamlined swim jig and swim it through lanes with occasional pauses. Let it fall on semi-slack line to keep the tail working.

Why: You get a “minnow-first” look that still moves water—great when the bite wants subtle, not a thumping trailer.

When/Where: Clear-to-stained water, points, edges, and open-water bait schools—anytime a little flash closes the deal.

How: Rig perfectly straight and swim it at a consistent depth. Use a “countdown” after the cast so you can repeat the productive lane.

Why: The minnow body plus a small blade is a simple, high-percentage combo: stable tracking, controlled flash, and a profile fish commit to.

When/Where: Edges, transitions, and vertical targets when fish are suspended or reluctant to chase.

How: Nose-hook for maximum quiver, or thread it on for durability around cover. Shake slack—don’t hop the weight.

Why: A 4.0" minnow profile reads “real meal” without needing big motion—perfect for getting neutral fish to commit.

Tuning: If you’re getting nipped, shorten pauses and downsize the hook gap before you change everything else.

When/Where: Around isolated cover, over grass, and along edges when fish are feeding up but won’t fully break the surface.

How: Rig so it sits level and “hangs” on the pause. Swim it a few feet, then stop and let it glide/hover before moving again.

Why: That stop-and-suspend look is pure baitfish behavior—and the minnow shape sells it without needing loud action.

When/Where: Rock, sand, and open flats—plus current seams in rivers where a simple swimmer just works.

How: Thread it straight and swim it low, or “lift–glide” it with short hops. Keep contact light; you’re imitating a minnow, not dragging a worm.

Why: Clean, efficient, and deadly: the jig head gives you depth control while the bait provides the look and movement.

When/Where: Sparse weeds, wood, and any place you need weedless but still want a baitfish profile.

How: Use a light weight and swim it through lanes, then let it fall next to targets. Think “swim + drop,” not just dragging.

Why: You get a subtle baitfish presentation that can go places a jig head can’t—without giving up control.

When/Where: Grass lanes, pad edges, and shallow cover where a belly weight keeps you clean and stable.

How: Rig dead straight, then swim it just fast enough to keep the tail working. Pause it in holes and let it glide down.

Why: Weedless + controlled depth + consistent tracking is a killer combo when fish want a steady swimmer that won’t foul.

When/Where: Shallow calm water, docks, and edges when you want a slow, natural fall.

How: Cast past the target, let it glide, then give short twitches to make it dart and reset.

Why: A 4.0" minnow that falls naturally can outproduce louder options when fish are watching everything.