Jiggin' Johnsons' Pintail Fluke 2.75" Soft Plastic Bait

When/Where: Stained water, wind, and around grass lines when fish want a tighter, more minnow-like trailer instead of a big kicking tail.

How: Rig it perfectly centered so the bait tracks straight. Use a steady retrieve, then add short half-second stalls to let it glide and re-engage.

Why: You keep the vibration/flash of the jig while the pintail adds a natural, tight “baitfish” profile that won’t overpower the presentation.

Tuning: If it starts to roll, re-rig straighter and make sure the nose seats flush to the collar/keeper.

When/Where: Along weed edges, docks, and wind-blown banks when you want to keep the trailer subtle but still add a clean silhouette.

How: Thread it straight and snug. Slow-roll deeper with the rod tip down, or wake higher with the rod tip up.

Why: The pintail’s understated action pairs well with blades—your trailer supports the profile without “fighting” the spinnerbait’s movement.

Tuning: If short strikes show up, slow down and keep it in the strike zone longer instead of upsizing.

When/Where: Clear to lightly stained water, shallow grass lanes, and edges where fish are feeding on small baitfish.

How: Swim it steadily, then add little twitches to make the bait “dart” and glide. Let it fall next to targets on semi-slack line.

Why: You get a compact, minnow-forward look that still has life, but stays controlled and realistic.

Tuning: Keep the trailer perfectly straight—most tracking issues are a rigging angle problem.

When/Where: Clear water, suspended fish, and schooling bites—any time subtle flash plus a small baitfish profile is the deal.

How: Thread it straight. Count it down to the level you want, then retrieve steadily with occasional quick turns to change cadence.

Why: The blade adds just enough flash to draw attention while the pintail keeps the body looking natural.

Tuning: If you’re getting follows, slow down and add short pauses so it glides and hangs in place.

When/Where: Clear water, vertical presentations, or when fish are suspended and you need “stay put” control.

How: Nose-hook (most finesse) or lightly Texas-rig (more cover). Shake slack, don’t move the weight much—let the bait quiver and glide.

Why: Pintails look convincing with minimal input, which is exactly what drop shotting rewards.

Tuning: If fish are nipping, reduce movement and lengthen pauses—make it look like a dying baitfish.

When/Where: Over grass tops, around bait balls, or anywhere you want a small minnow to “hover” and drift naturally.

How: Keep your rod tip up and work short, controlled pulls with slack in between so it glides and suspends.

Why: The fluke profile is built for dart-and-glide—perfect for a hover-style cadence.

Tuning: If it’s too aggressive, shorten your pulls and let the glide do the selling.

When/Where: Rivers, rock, sand, and open-water baitfish situations where you want a simple, clean swim.

How: Cast and swim just off bottom, or count it down and hold a steady retrieve. Add occasional twitches to make it dart.

Why: It’s the most straightforward way to fish a pintail: natural shape + natural track.

Tuning: If you’re snagging, lighten up and keep it moving; if you’re not staying down, bump weight slightly.

When/Where: Grass, sparse wood, and docks when you need a weedless baitfish look that can glide into openings.

How: Rig it straight. Swim it through lanes, then kill it next to cover and let it fall on semi-slack line.

Why: You get the fluke glide without the hang-ups—great for “target, glide, pause” fishing.

Tuning: If bites are light, go lighter and let the fall do more work than your retrieve.

When/Where: Shallow flats, weed edges, and mid-depth lanes where you want a stable swim and an easy keel.

How: Rig straight and swim it steadily. Add quick twitches to make it kick and glide, then return to steady.

Why: It keeps the bait tracking clean while staying snag-resistant.

Tuning: If you want more glide, slow down and incorporate longer pauses.

When/Where: Shallow cover, calm conditions, and spooky fish—especially around docks and edges.

How: Cast, let it fall, then twitch-twitch-pause. Keep slack in the line so it can glide and “walk” naturally.

Why: This is where a fluke profile really flexes: the glide sells the whole illusion.

Tuning: If it’s not gliding, you’re probably too tight—give it slack and shorten your twitches.