Jiggin' Johnsons' Gilley 1.5" Finesse Soft Plastic Bait

When & where: Dock corners, marina edges, brush piles, cribs, and weed pockets—anywhere panfish hold tight but slide out to eat.

How: Thread it perfectly straight on a micro jighead. Swim it just fast enough to feel it track, then kill it at the “edge” (shade line, weed edge, brush edge) and let it pendulum down.

Why: You get a minnow silhouette without a loud tail—more “natural drift” than “worked bait,” which is exactly what tough fish want.

Tuning: If bites are just taps, slow down and shorten your pause cadence: fewer moves, longer hangs.

When & where: Over brush/crib tops, along steep edges, or under the ice when you’re seeing fish but they won’t chase.

How: Nose-hook for maximum “breathing” action, or lightly Texas it if you’re around snags. Hold it in place and use tiny shakes—think fingertip pulses, not rod pops.

Why: It lets you park a micro bait right in front of fish without it looking like you’re trying too hard.

Tuning: If they’re nipping short, reduce leader length so the bait stays closer to the weight and tracks tighter.

When & where: The “do everything” rig—open water or ice—for bluegill, crappie, perch, and stocked trout.

How: Cast and slow-roll along edges, or fish vertical and dead-still with micro shakes. Most bites happen on the pause or the first inch of lift.

Why: Clean, simple, and efficient. The ribs give just enough texture that fish often hold on longer.

Tuning: Match head weight to control, not speed—use the lightest head that still keeps you in the zone.

When & where: Hard bottom, sparse weeds, or “nothing spots” where fish roam and inspect.

How: Micro mushroom head, slow drag, long pauses. Let it sit like a fry that dropped out of the school.

Why: A tiny profile that still shows “life” at rest—perfect for pressured bass and bonus panfish.

Tuning: If you’re snagging, raise rod angle and slow your drag so it glides instead of digging.