Jiggin' Johnsons' Croaker 1.75" Finesse Frog Soft Plastic Bait

When/Where: Calm mornings, shallow weed edges, shade lines, and any time you want topwater presence without a big profile.

How: Thread the Croaker straight as a trailer so the legs sit even. Start with a steady crawl; add quick half-turn bursts to make the legs “pop.”

Why it works: The small body keeps the bait from overpowering the buzz—more bites from pressured fish, and it tracks clean at slower speeds.

Tuning: If it rolls, re-thread perfectly centered and trim 1–2mm off one leg until it tracks true.

When/Where: Wind-blown pockets, sparse grass, and shallow rock where fish are eating small but still want vibration.

How: Run it as a compact trailer. Keep the retrieve smooth; let the blades do the calling while the legs pulse on the follow-up.

Why it works: You get a “soft target” at the back of the bait without adding bulk—perfect when fish swipe short.

Tuning: If you’re missing fish, downsize the hook trailer keeper (or use a smaller trailer hook) to keep everything compact.

When/Where: Shallow grass, reeds, and edges where you want a tight profile that slides through cover.

How: Thread straight and snug to the jig collar. Swim it just fast enough to tick stems; kill it in openings to let the legs flutter.

Why it works: The Croaker keeps a swim jig “bite sized” while still giving an obvious kick—great when the bite is there but fish won’t commit to a bigger trailer.

Tuning: For more lift, use a lighter jig head; for more depth control, keep the same speed and bump weight up one size.

When/Where: Clear to lightly stained water, especially over sand/grass transitions and around shallow rock.

How: Rig straight and swim it with the rod tip down. Mix in short pauses so the body glides while the blade flashes.

Why it works: Flash draws fish in; the finesse frog profile closes the deal—especially on “lookers” that won’t eat a swimbait.

Tuning: If you want more “hunt,” add tiny twitches during the swim; if you want more glide, lengthen pauses.

When/Where: Edges of grass, dock shade, and any “small target” situation where fish are suspended just off bottom.

How: Nose-hook for max flutter, or light-Texas it for cover. Shake in place—tiny rod-tip vibrations make the legs quiver.

Why it works: The Croaker moves without forward travel, so you can keep it pinned in a high-percentage spot.

Tuning: In cover, keep the weight heavier than you think so the bait stays above the mess while you work it.

When/Where: Rock, sand, and light vegetation—especially when you want a simple “hop and glide” presentation.

How: Thread straight so the legs sit evenly. Hop it short, then let it pendulum back to bottom on semi-slack line.

Why it works: You get a compact “creature + kick” look that’s easy for fish to inhale, even in cold fronts or high pressure.

Tuning: If you’re snagging, go to a slightly lighter head and keep contact with controlled hops instead of dragging.

When/Where: Sparse grass, reed edges, and around wood where you want weedless finesse with a little “frog” vibe.

How: Rig perfectly straight with a small weight (or no weight in skinny water). Crawl it, then give short pops to flare the legs.

Why it works: Weedless + compact = more time in the strike zone, and it slips into places where a bigger frog gets ignored.

Tuning: If it spins, your hook exit is off-center—re-rig and make sure the body is dead straight.

When/Where: Ultra-shallow cover, calm evenings, and around visible targets (weed clumps, reeds, dock corners).

How: Cast past the target, let it settle, then twitch-twitch-pause. Keep pauses long—this bait doesn’t need much to look alive.

Why it works: A slow, natural fall plus subtle leg action is a killer “easy meal” cue for fish that won’t chase.

Tuning: If you need a touch more sink without losing finesse, pinch a tiny nail weight into the belly.