Jiggin' Johnsons' Arrow Grub 1.75" Soft Plastic Bait

When/Where: Windy banks, shallow grass edges, and riprap when fish are following or swiping short.

How: Thread the Arrow Grub straight as a compact trailer. Run a smooth retrieve and let the tail “tick” behind the blades.

Why: It adds an easy-to-eat target without bulking up the bait—great for pressured fish and cold-front conditions.

Tuning: If the trailer rolls, re-thread dead-center and snug it tight to the collar/keeper.

When/Where: Shallow reeds, sparse milfoil, and edge cover when you want a small profile that still swims clean.

How: Thread straight and keep the retrieve steady. Add a quick pause over holes—on the restart the tail often triggers bites.

Why: You get a streamlined “minnow-ish” silhouette with dependable kick at slow speeds.

Tuning: If you want more lift, lighten the jig; if you want more depth control, keep speed the same and bump weight up one step.

When/Where: Clear to lightly stained water, especially over sand/grass transitions and along shallow rock.

How: Swim it slow and level with the rod tip down. Mix in short pauses so it glides, then re-engage the blade.

Why: Flash pulls fish in; the tiny grub profile closes—perfect for “lookers” that won’t commit to a bigger swimbait.

Tuning: To keep it higher in the column, slow down and lighten weight before you speed up.

When/Where: Dock shade, weed edges, and along rock lines when fish are suspended just off bottom.

How: Nose-hook for maximum tail quiver, or light-Texas for cover. Shake in place—tiny rod-tip ticks make the tail pulse without moving far.

Why: It stays in the strike zone and still “swims” with almost no forward travel.

Tuning: If fish are nipping, shorten your leader and slow your shake—less motion, more control.

When/Where: Hard-bottom spots, riprap, and sparse grass where fish want a small snack and a slow pace.

How: Thread it perfectly straight on a mushroom-style head. Drag and pause, or hop it in tiny steps and let it settle.

Why: The Arrow Grub tail adds just enough movement to turn “dead-stick” pauses into bites.

Tuning: If it hangs up, lift and glide instead of dragging—keep the head from wedging in rock.

When/Where: Panfish schools, shallow rock, and current seams—anywhere a classic jig-and-grub shines.

How: Swim it steady just off bottom or count it down and slow-roll. Add occasional pops to flare the tail.

Why: Simple, reliable, and it tracks true even at very slow speeds.

Tuning: If you’re getting snagged, go lighter and keep it swimming, not dragging.

When/Where: Around reeds, sparse grass, and small wood where you want weedless finesse.

How: Rig straight with a small weight. Crawl it and occasionally lift it to swim a foot or two, then let it settle.

Why: You get grub action in places a jig head can’t survive.

Tuning: If it spins, your hook exit is off-center—re-rig and make sure the body is dead straight.

When/Where: Ultra-shallow flats, calm pockets, and around visible targets where a slow fall matters.

How: Cast past the target, let it sink, then twitch-pause. Keep pauses long—the tail doesn’t need much to move.

Why: Natural, subtle, and easy to inhale—great for spooky fish.

Tuning: Need a touch more sink? Add a tiny nail weight to the belly without ruining the finesse vibe.