Jiggin' Johnsons' Ripswim 3.0" Soft Plastic Minnow Bait

When/Where: Wind, stain, grass lanes, and anytime you want vibration with a baitfish trailer that stays controlled.

How: Rig perfectly centered. Retrieve to keep the blade working, then add short stalls to let the bait drop and re-engage.

Why: The blade brings them; the 3.0" minnow body seals the deal with a true baitfish silhouette.

Tuning: If it rolls, re-rig straighter and make sure the nose is seated flush on the keeper.

When/Where: Weed edges, docks, wind-blown banks, and cover seams when fish want a slightly bigger trailer profile.

How: Thread it straight and snug. Slow-roll deeper with the rod tip down, or wake it higher with the rod tip up.

Why: A 3.0" minnow gives you body and presence without turning the spinnerbait into a bulky package.

Tuning: If you’re getting short strikes, slow down and keep it level through the strike zone longer.

When/Where: Grass tops, outside edges, and shallow cover when fish are roaming but still relate to lanes.

How: Swim it steady, then pop it free when you tick grass. Mix in quick kills next to cover to trigger reaction bites.

Why: The baitfish profile stays consistent at a range of speeds, so you can fish it fast to locate fish or slow to convert.

Tuning: If it rides too high, slow down and keep your rod tip down to hold depth.

When/Where: Clear to lightly stained water, suspended fish, and schooling situations where subtle flash helps fish track.

How: Count it down to the level you want and retrieve steadily. Add occasional quick turns to change cadence.

Why: Flash draws attention; the minnow body and tail deliver a steady, believable swim.

Tuning: If you see follows, slow down and add brief pauses so the bait hangs in place.

When/Where: Clear water, vertical work, and suspended fish when you need precise depth control.

How: Nose-hook for maximum freedom, or lightly Texas-rig for cover. Shake slack—minimal movement, maximum “alive.”

Why: A minnow profile on a drop shot is a great “match the bait” option when fish are looking up.

Tuning: If fish are nipping, reduce movement and lengthen pauses so they can get the hook point.

When/Where: Over grass tops, around bait, and in open lanes where you want a minnow to glide and hover naturally.

How: Short pulls with slack in between so it drifts and glides; keep the cadence controlled.

Why: The body profile reads as “real baitfish” even with small rod movements.

Tuning: If it’s too aggressive, shorten your pulls and let the glide do more of the work.

When/Where: Rock, sand, current seams, and open water when simple and effective is the goal.

How: Cast, let it fall, then swim it just off bottom. Mix in a couple hops when you contact rock.

Why: This is the go-to “do everything” setup for a 3" class minnow.

Tuning: If you snag, reduce hop height; if you’re not staying down, bump weight slightly.

When/Where: Grass and mixed cover when you want weedless baitfish swim plus a clean fall next to targets.

How: Rig straight. Swim through lanes, then kill it next to cover and let it fall on semi-slack line.

Why: Weedless efficiency without giving up the baitfish look.

Tuning: If bites are light, lighten up and slow down—more fall, less pull.

When/Where: Weed edges, shallow flats, and mid-depth lanes when you want snag resistance and stable tracking.

How: Rig straight and swim it steadily. Add short twitches for cadence changes.

Why: The keel weight helps the bait track true while the hook stays protected.

Tuning: If it runs high, slow down; if it runs low, speed up slightly and keep the rod tip up.

When/Where: Shallow cover and calm water when fish are spooky and you need a slow, natural fall.

How: Cast, let it fall, then twitch lightly with long pauses. Keep slack so it glides naturally.

Why: Weightless presentations give you hang time, which turns curious followers into biters.

Tuning: If it’s not gliding, you’re too tight—give it slack and shorten your twitches.