Jiggin' Johnsons' Chub Grub 4.0" Soft Plastic Bait

When/Where: Anytime you want thump + flash but still need a trailer that starts working immediately—wind, stain, or when fish are tracking by feel.

How: Thread it straight so the ribbed body sits centered. Let the curl tail “hunt” behind the blade on a steady retrieve, then mix in short pauses to let the tail kick back up.

Why: The ribbing holds water and the tail stays active at slower speeds, which helps your bladed jig keep doing “something” even when you’re barely crawling it.

Tuning: If it rolls, re-thread perfectly centered and pinch the nose flat so it seats tight to the keeper.

When/Where: Edges—weedlines, rock transitions, and shallow flats where you’re covering water and triggering reaction bites.

How: Use it as a bulkier trailer that adds drag and slow-roll control. A steady retrieve with occasional rod-tip pops will make the tail flare and re-engage.

Why: It gives you a bigger profile without needing a huge blade package, and the curl tail keeps pulsing when the bait momentarily stalls.

Tuning: If you want more lift, rig it perfectly straight and keep the tail free (don’t bury it in the skirt).

When/Where: Over grass tops, along reeds, and through sparse cover—especially when fish want a steady “swimming” meal with extra tail action.

How: Swim it on a medium retrieve, then kill it for half a second near pockets or turns—tail keeps moving as the jig glides.

Why: The ribbed body adds presence and the curl tail keeps working when the jig is barely moving, which is money around pressured fish.

Tuning: Trim the skirt slightly if you want the tail to show more and start faster.

When/Where: Points, breaks, and open-water edges where fish are relating to bait—great when you want subtle flash plus a lively tail.

How: Slow-roll just off bottom or count it down and swim it through the level you’re marking fish. The curl tail keeps pulsing even at slower speeds.

Why: You get a clean “bait-meets-meat” look: flash from the blade and continuous action from the tail, without needing a paddle tail profile.

Tuning: If you’re missing short strikers, downsize the hook gap (or choose a head with a slightly shorter shank) so the tail isn’t too far back.

When/Where: Sand/rock transitions, flats, and outside grass edges when you want bottom contact but a bait that still “swims” behind the weight.

How: Drag and pause. Let the weight tick bottom while the grub trails behind and the curl tail keeps waving on slack line.

Why: It’s a great way to cover bottom fast while still showing a moving-bait signal—especially when fish are following but not committing to faster stuff.

Tuning: Longer leader = more glide and tail time; shorter leader = tighter, more bottom-oriented presentation.

When/Where: The do-it-all option—cast, count down, and swim; or hop along bottom on rocks and hard transitions.

How: Rig dead-straight. Swim it steadily, then add small hops. On the fall, the tail keeps fluttering and the ribs “push” water.

Why: Simple, consistent, and effective across species—this is the fastest way to turn the Chub Grub into a true multi-purpose bait.

Tuning: Go lighter to keep it higher and slower; go heavier to keep it pinned in wind/current.

When/Where: Around cover where you still want a swimming tail—laydowns, weeds, and edges where a jighead hangs up.

How: Light weight, steady swim with occasional stops. The curl tail will keep moving on the pause and help fish track it through cover.

Why: You keep that grub action but gain weedlessness and a more “free” tail behind the body.

Tuning: Skin-hook the point and keep the body straight; any kink will make it roll.